My Christmas dinner was a success this year, but the desert was my crowning course. I chose a sour cream chocolate cake baked in a bundt pan. Instead of simply dusting the baked cake with powdered sugar, I took a few additional steps to ensure a shop-stopper desert course. Once cooled, I carefully sliced my cake with a bread knife in half. For frosting I made a batch of french vanilla butter cream and topped my first layer with a generous layer. To that I dotted with fresh raspberries and added my top layer of cake. Another generous coating of frosting and more raspberries made the cake beautiful. I completed the presentation with a generous shaving of good white chocolate and placed on a beautiful cake plate. As you can see from my photograph, the center is also filled with frosting and berries. This certainly isn’t necessary but I just couldn’t waste the left over frosting!
My Fabulous Holiday Cake
Filed under First Courses & Deserts
My take on Julia’s French Onion Soup
I love French Onion Soup! Especially when baked in individual crocks with French bread rounds and cheese. I started with Julia Child’s Soupe ‘a l’Oignon Gratinee and tweaked it. I wanted the deepest flavor from my onions, so instead of 40 minutes, I carmelize my onions for an entire hour on very low heat. The extra time is worth it, believe me. Another part of Julia’s recipe that I altered was the amount of time to cook the soup once the beef stock is added – again, I simmer for at least an hour; what you are left with is the most flavorful onion soup you have ever tasted! For serving, I use Le Creuset’s petite casseroles, but any single serving, oven-safe crock will do. The one part of Julia’s recipe that I insist you don’t skimp on is the addition of Cognac just before pouring the soup into your serving vessels. I know good Cognac is expensive, but a few tablespoons is all that is needed to give this soup a beautiful finish.
MJ’s Very Rich French Onion Soup
Serves 6-8
1½ lbs. or about 5 cups of thinly sliced yellow onions
(If you have a food scale, I recommend weighing your sliced onions to achieve a more accurate measurement)
3 Tb unsalted butter
1Tb vegetable or canola oil
A heavy-bottomed, 4 quart covered saucepan or French oven with a lid
1 tsp. kosher salt
¼ tsp. sugar (key to good caramelization of onions)
3 Tb flour
2 ½ quarts good beef stock, brought to a boil
½ cup dry white wine or dry white vermouth (preferred by MJ)
Salt and pepper to taste
3 Tb Cognac
6-8 individual oven-safe soup pots
1½ cups grated Parmesan cheese
12-16 ¼ inch rounds of toasted French bread or large, freshly made croutons
2 cups grated Gruyere cheese (or more to taste)
Good olive oil
Heat butter and oil and add sliced onions; toss until well coated and cover. Cook for 15 minutes on medium/low, stirring occasionally.
Uncover and stir in salt and sugar. Cook for one hour, stirring frequently, until the onions have turned an even, deep-golden brown. If your stove runs hot, turn temperature down to low. Whatever you do, don’t skimp on time here – an entire hour will give you the richness that this soup truly requires and you’ll thank me.
Sprinkle in the flour and stir for 3 minutes.
Off heat, blend in the boiling beef stock. Add the vermouth and season to taste. Simmer partially covered for one hour, skimming occasionally. Again, do you and your dinner guests the favor of NOT skimping on time here.
Note: The above can be done in advance. Simply reheat your soup to boiling and continue with serving instructions.
Preheat oven to 325 degrees.
Stir in the cognac and divide soup into the soup pots. Divide the Parmesan cheese and stir into pots. Float French bread rounds or large, freshly made croutons on top of the soup. Spread the grated Gruyere over and sprinkle with olive oil. Bake for 20 minutes, then set for a minute or two under a broiler to brown the top lightly. Serve immediately and ENJOY!
I know you will….
Filed under First Courses & Deserts, Soup
Tarte Tatin
I have tried many different recipes for this classic apple tart but finally perfected my own! I have tried puff pastry and home-made short crust pastry and I find that using the latter gives better body to the desert. I like puff pastry but find it just too delicate. I usually have short crust pastry in my freezer so the night before I am putting together a Tarte Tatin I pop it in the fridge and it’s ready to roll out the next day.
Aside from a mix of good quality baking apples (Granny Smith, Braeburn, Fuji, Golden Delicious and Pippin are all great options), I like flavorings such as Calvados (apple brandy) and the seeds and pods of vanilla beans. And I really prefer to use raw sugar instead of the white, granulated variety to make my caramel, and of course, good quality unsalted butter.
In a 10-12 inch cast-iron pan I make a light caramel with the calvados, sugar and vanilla pod and then add the apples and continue cooking until a nice, rich caramel develops. All that is left is to add knobs of butter and the pastry, gently tucking the edges around the edges and bake. Once the tarte is golden I allow it to rest for about 5 minutes and then ever so gently, invert it onto a decorative dish. Serve with good quality vanilla ice cream and/or freshly whipped cream. It doesn’t get any better than this!
My full recipe will be posted shortly.
Filed under First Courses & Deserts
Orange Risotto & Breast of Duck
For anyone who knows me, my signature dish is risotto. I love the creamy texture and the way that the rice takes on so many flavors from sweet to savory. This dish was great fun. I used a recipe from my favorite Italian magazine as my guide and then, of course, tweaked it. First I cleaned, trimmed and scored my duck breasts and marinated them in the juice of 2 Naval Oranges and a teaspoon of crushed peppercorns. The recipe called for an hour at room temperature but I chose to place my covered meat in the refrigerator for 3 – having raw meat on the counter top just didn’t sit well with me, even though it was immersed in the citrus juice. I also feel that the duck benefited from the extra time in the juice too. The breasts were seared, skin side down and the fat rendered for about 20 minutes in a cast iron pan until the skin was very deep golden brown. A quick 2 minutes on the reverse side and the breasts were removed to a hot plate and tented with foil.
The risotto was a pretty classic recipe. Onions, arborio rice and 2 cups of vegetable stock mixed with 2 cups water. After the first cup of broth was absorbed I added the zest of an orange that I minced up into small pieces. I was amazed with the aromatic and delicate flavor this added to the rice! Once the risotto was al dente I took it off the heat and added 1 cup of freshly grated parmesan cheese and a few teaspoons of rosemary oil. If you can’t find this at your gourmet market, make it. Put about 6 tablespoons of olive oil in a small saucepan and add a small sprig of fresh rosemary. Bring to a very slow simmer and cook gently (don’t walk away!) for about 3 minutes and let cool about 10 minutes. Then take the rosemary out and remove the fried leaves and reserve; discard the stem. To server I put a generous spoonful of risotto on a platter and put a duck breast that was sliced on a diagonal on top in a fan shape. Long strands of sweetly aromatic orange rinds and rosemary leaves finished the dish. I will follow up shortly with a detailed recipe.
Filed under First Courses & Deserts, Meat, Poultry
Quiche Lorraine My Way
I adore quiche! As usual, I haven’t been too pleased with the recipes that I have found and decided to play around a bit with a classic recipe. Like the original, I fried strips of bacon (lardons) and placed on the bottom of my pastry. I wanted something more light and creamy so I whipped my eggs, cream, salt, white pepper and nutmeg until foamy, which created an almost mouse-like texture. I used P’tit Basque, a French sheep’s milk cheese that I folded gently into the eggs just before pouring into a blind-baked pastry. The pastry I make using just butter, flour, salt and a sprinkle of basil. And for a Fall-like effect, I placed pre-cooked pastry leaves on top of the quiche just as it came out of the oven. A side serving of grilled, herb fingerling potatoes make for a perfect brunch dish.
Filed under First Courses & Deserts, Fish & Eggs, Meat
Ragu alla Bolognese
I LOVE a good bolognese sauce. Used on it’s own over fettuccine or tagliatelle pasta is pure comfort food. Or layered with a Balsamella (or Béchamel) sauce in a lasagne is also a lovely use. I have been playing with many different recipes lately for this classic meat sauce and have been frustrated that so many of the chefs out there use tomato sauce as the star ingredient and usually pea-like bits of ground beef that have little resemblance to a classic Ragu that you would find in Bologna. I recently came across a very old recipe called the “official” Ragu alla Bolognese, created by the Bolognese chapter of the Accademia Italiana dell Cucina. After adding a few of my own personal touches, I have found the ultimate Ragu! The recipe calls for minced flank steak, pancetta, a mirepoix of carrots, celery and onions, tomato puree, wine and milk. At the end of the 4 hour cooking process (yes, 4 hours!) I add a few sprinkles of freshly grated nutmeg and fresh Italian parsley, but that’s my take that you can leave out. I just like the sweet, subtle smokey quality of the nutmeg and the freshness (and color) of the herbs. In the end, this IS an amazing recipe and is very much worth your time because only time can develop the big, bold, subtle flavor that makes you feel you are at a Trattoria in Italy. Best served with tagliatelle or fettucine NOT spaghetti. The tagliatelle holds the sauce while it just slides onto the plate when served with spaghetti.
Here is the recipe:
- 400 grams tagliatelle or fettucine
- 300 grams minced beef – recommended cut is thin flank (skirt) but any good quality mince will work.
- 150 grams unsmoked pancetta – minced very finely
- 50 grams each of carrot, celery and onion – finely chopped or minced
- 30 grams triple concentrated tomato puree (if using double concentrated, increase the quantity by about 1/3
- ½ glass red or white wine (I prefer a full bodied red)
- 180 milliliters fresh milk
- olive oil
- salt & pepper
- optional: dash of fresh nutmeg and chopped Italian parsley
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- Fry the pancetta gently in a little olive oil until it starts to release its fat. Be careful not to burn.
- Add the vegetables and cook until soft and onions are transparent, stirring often.
- Add the beef and cook until it is lightly browned. When you hear popping noises, it’s done.
- Add the tomato puree and the wine and mix well.
- Add the milk, little by little until it is completely absorbed.
- Season with salt and pepper, turn temperature down to a gentle simmer and cook for 3-4 hours. (do 4, you’ll thank me!)
- Stir occasionally and if the Ragu looks like its drying out, add more milk.
- At this point grind fresh nutmeg to taste and sprinkle with Italian parsley if you wish.
- Serve over Fettuccine or Tagliatelle and pass the Parmesan cheese.
- For a richer flavor toss the pasta first in a little unsalted butter and then in Parmesan before adding the Ragu.
Filed under First Courses & Deserts, Meat
Nutella Cookie Sandwiches
The November issue of La Cucina Italiana is all about dolce, or deserts and I am in heaven! I wasn’t sure which recipe to try first but since I am a lover of Chocolate and Hazelnuts I went for the Nutella Cookie Sandwich. The cookie is a sweet, melt in your mouth buttery bite with hints of Nutella, rolled oats and salt. And if that wasn’t enough you fill two cookies with Nutella spread and, what can I say, grab the milk or your favorite desert wine. This one is a winner!
Filed under First Courses & Deserts
Savory Crostata My Way
Recently I needed a way to use up some left over veggies and cheeses and thought that a Savory Crostata would fill the bill. The dough was a classic flour, butter, salt, water dough with a bit of cream cheese to make it nice and tender. For my filling I caramelized a few shallots with rosemary from the garden and then added some crispy pancetta cubes from a previous dish. Once warmed through I added a few carrots and 1/2 of a red bell pepper, medium diced. Once the veggies were tender I moved the filling to a bowl to cool slightly while I rolled out my crust. Just before adding the filling to the center of my 12″ pastry I added the three types of cheeses that I had left over from a previous party – gorgonzola, fontina and white cheddar, cut into small cubes. Leaving a 2 inch border around the filling I then crimped in the edges, slightly covering the filling. A quick brushing of a beaten egg and a dusting of parmesan cheese and fleur de sel on the crust and the crostata was ready for the oven. 25 minutes later I enjoyed a quick and easy way to use up left over ingredients from the fridge. And it was wonderful! I will follow up shortly with a detailed recipe.
Filed under Salads & Bread, Vegetables
Salted Honey Caramels
After trying many different recipes I decided to take the best from each preferred method and create my own. The following is the culmination of many bags of wasted sugar, many different textures and many visits to my dentist (joking!). I love using a very dark, rich honey which combined with good quality butter, gives a richness of flavor to the caramel that truly makes a difference. Try experimenting with your favorite brands and flavors of honey and create your own custom caramel. Fleur de sel in and on top of the caramel provides a double punch of saltiness that I love. Experiment with many of the other specialty salts out there and have fun with it!
Salted Honey Caramels:
1.5 cups sugar
1/2 cut very dark, intense honey
1 stick (4oz) unsalted butter
1-cup heavy cream
1-1.5 teaspoons fleur de sel plus more for sprinkling on top
Add sugar and honey into a large, non-reactive pot. Turn on the heat and let the sugar and honey melt and cook until caramelized to a deep, dark brown color. Shake the pot if necessary to get all the crystals to melt but don’t stir. Use a pastry brush dipped in water to clean sides of pot if crystals form.
While the sugar is cooking, bring the cream to a very gentle simmer.
When the sugar mixture reaches the color you like, whisk in the butter in small knobs until well mixed, then add the warmed cream and whisk until smooth. Add the salt at this point and place your candy thermometer in the pot and cook until the mixture reaches 260 degrees F or 125 C.
Pour the hot caramel (be very careful here!) onto a cookie sheet lined with parchment or a Silpat mat. (*You can also use an 8″x8″ baking dish for thicker caramels) Let the caramel cool until you can handle it, then cut into small squares and roll (if you used the cookie sheet, or cut into small squares if you used the baking dish) Sprinkle the tops with additional Fleur de sel and wrap in parchment paper squares – practice with one until you get the paper size right then cut several stacks at a time.
*Note: I prefer to use an 8”x8” baking dish which makes 64, 1-inch caramels. Rolling the caramels like a “tootsie” candy is cute but I find it more work than the 1-inch version, which is a perfect bite.
Filed under First Courses & Deserts
Honey/Lavender Shortbread Cookies
This is a delicious take on the classic shortbread recipe. Dried lavender and honey were added to the recipe which adds fragrant and sweet notes to the buttery shortbread. I used powdered sugar and baking powder which gave the finished product a softer, more delicate bite than the classic recipe, which is quite firm and crunchy. These cookies are so buttery, slightly salty and literally melt in your mouth!
Here is the recipe:
Honey Lavender Shortbread Cookies
Recipe Courtesy of Michael John Rizzo
2 cups all-purpose flour
3/4-teaspoon salt
1/2-teaspoon baking powder
1 tablespoon dried or fresh lavender flowers
6 ounces unsalted butter, softened (the best quality you can find)
2 tablespoons honey (the darker the better)
1/2-cup confectioner’s sugar
1. Combine flour, salt, baking powder and lavender in a medium bowl.
2. Using an electric mixer or the paddle attachment on a stand mixer, cream the butter and sugar. Add the dry ingredients and mix until just combined.
3. Spoon dough out onto a large rectangle of parchment paper and make a nice, even roll to form a log. Transfer dough to refrigerator and chill until firm, about 1 to 2 hours.
4. Preheat oven to 350 degrees and line a baking sheet with parchment paper of a Silpat mat. Cut the log of dough into 1/2-inch slices. (I used a serrated knife to make this easier)
Place the slices on sheet, spacing them about 2 inches apart and bake about 8 minutes or until a light, golden brown. I turn my pan after half of the time to ensure even cooked
shortbread.
Enjoy!
Filed under First Courses & Deserts
